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N by Norwegian

Big green mountains: visiting the world’s greenest ski resort

At daybreak, from the gondola station in the LAAX ski resort, the distant lights of snow groomers can just be made out through the fog. The vehicles crawl up the slopes on the last leg of their night shift, striving to finish before throngs of winter sports enthusiasts arrive, piling 80 at a time into the gondola cars at the first sign of sunlight.

There’ll be fresh powder for these early birds, thanks to the yellow snow cannons that line the newly smoothed runs. These blowers, which resemble giant hair dryers, have been topping up the natural snowfall overnight, fed with water from a nearby man-made lake.

At first glance, neither groomers nor cannons seem particularly eco-friendly, but they’re working together in a way that makes this Swiss mountain resort a world leader for green initiatives.

“The drivers have a GPS system that indicates exactly how much extra snow is needed where,” explains Reto Fry, environmental officer for the local area. Eco-friendly, high-tech machines like these can work together to enable more efficient use of resources: a key tenet of his sustainable vision for the resort.

Fry has become an expert in efficient use of resources since spearheading LAAX’s think-global, act-local sustainability concept, Greenstyle, which he’s run single-handedly since it launched in 2010. The resort was one of the first Alpine destinations to respond to the growing idea that mountain resorts might not be good for the environment.

Around 120 million people visit the Alps each year, and a big part of the draw is the proximity to the vast beauty of mountainous nature. Yet mass tourism – added to melting glaciers, rising snow lines and increasingly unpredictable snowfalls – threatens to harm the very environment that visitors seek to connect with.

Some suggest that skiing itself is too impactful and we should put down our ski poles for good but this is a drastic solution and one that would be devastating for Alpine communities. Mountain tourism has been the saviour of tiny, cut-off villages all over the Alps, particularly in Switzerland, where almost 170,000 citizens are directly employed by a tourism industry that generates CHF46.7 billion (US$46.7bn) annually.

Instead, the challenge today is for tourists to pick resorts with an eco-conscious approach – and for resorts to prioritise that approach. “The most important three topics for today’s generation are climate change, energy consumption and biodiversity,” Fry explains. “So I set out a solid framework for what we want to achieve.”

It’s not the first time that LAAX has attempted to project its ambitions ahead of the curve. The area was once marketed as part of the traditional and wealthy nearby town of Flims, but was rebranded, along with its 224km of slopes, under the banner of LAAX in 1997, reimagining itself as an extreme sports destination. It now has a world-renowned snowboarding freestyle and off-piste scene, is home to the world’s biggest halfpipe, and is attracting more youthful visitors each year thanks to its mountaintop co-working spaces and “urban slopestyle”. The modern resort has an average visitor age of 38 – significantly lower than the middle-aged average elsewhere in the Alps.

Greenstyle was the next logical step – a dedicated focus on sustainability that would chime with its eco-savvy clientele. It’s not just lip-service. Since 2010, the resort has run on 100% renewable electricity, mostly hydropower and solar (non-sustainable fuels are still used for heating). Last year its rocksresort hotel was recognised as the World’s Best Green Ski Hotel. It even produces a range of natty bags made from its recycled marketing pamphlets.

Fry is now ready to take it up a notch, recently proclaiming the plan to become carbon neutral and self-sufficient by 2030. To accomplish this feat, he’s divided his targets into seven focus areas: energy, zero waste, water, transportation, food and purchasing, biodiversity and communication. “Because of our renewable energy and energy efficiency strategy, I can now say that 100% renewable energy by 2023 in LAAX is totally possible,” he says. “We’re installing heating systems that run on biomass pellets and we’re planning to build a wind farm on a glacier.”

Fry’s food waste target feeds into the strategy, too. “We’ve set a goal to reduce residual waste by half, mainly through plastic recycling,” he explains. “We’re encouraging people to use reusable coffee cups and food waste is made into biogas.” As well as encouraging chefs to use local, seasonal and organic produce, the resort has invested in an automated food-waste management system called Kitro. In use at the Riders restaurant, a bin is fitted with a scale and a camera that photographs food waste each time more than 30g is deposited and sends reports back to the kitchen.

Other ongoing initiatives include providing electric-car charging stations and free bus shuttles; building roof gardens to create habitats for wild butterflies and bees; and recycling water so that mountain-fresh spring water is no longer used for sanitation as well as drinking – 7.5 million litres have already been saved since 2010 through new efficiency measures.

These ideas aren’t unique to LAAX: Chamonix has set its own target to reduce carbon emissions by 20% by 2020, while Villars, towards the Swiss border with France, has installed hybrid buses and solar panels. For Fry, it’s not about creating competition with other resorts but working together and taking inspiration from similar resorts’ initiatives. “I’m convinced that it’s possible to solve lots of our problems.”

Although he recognises there’s much work still to be done, he feels positive he can achieve his goals. “I have a family. I want to commit to their future. And the last year or two, I finally see the vision in my head coming together. Now, we just need to show others what we’re doing. We can’t influence everything but we can try to be a good example in the hope that others will join us on this path.” laax.com

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The Wharf

Delivering the dancehall: Horace Andy interview

Talking to roots reggae legend Horace Andy on the phone was no mean feat – and not just because of the London-Kingston time difference.

The background noise of his family home in Jamaica made for a chaotic chat punctuated by the shrieks of an unruly cockerel, seemingly crowing right into the receiver at all the key moments.

“Come again please,” Horace kept laughing, as I struggled to ask him about his extensive musical career – from his Kingston roots and his proto-dancehall 1980s tracks, to his near-20 years collaborating with Bristol trip-hop group Massive Attack – over the constant din.

We were speaking in advance of his five-night residency at Boisdale Of Canary Wharf (from November 12-16), which marks his first London shows since 2017, when – despite his nickname “Sleepy” – he performed an energetic Jazz Cafe set spanning his trademark, soulful hits from the early 1970s to today.

Fans of the Jamaican singer-songwriter are hoping for more of the same this winter. And Horace, a longtime stalwart and admirer of London’s music scene, is gearing up to deliver.

“London is a music city,” he said. “Once you come out of it the vibes change. I know Canary Wharf, I’ve been around there. I know people everywhere, love.”

It’s unsurprising, seeing as 67-year-old Horace Hinds has had a career that’s transported him from Jamaica to America to the UK and back.

He changed his surname to Andy when he signed to his first label, on his producer’s recommendation, to avoid comparisons with his musician cousin Justin Hinds.

Horace released his first single, This Is A Black Man’s Country, in 1967 with Studio One in Kingston, and grew to national fame there with his first major hit, Skylarking, in 1972. His album of the same name has gone down in history as a roots reggae classic, named by GQ in 2016 as one of 10 classic LPs from reggae’s golden era.

Horace then moved to the US, temporarily recording in New York City in 1982 with Jamaican expat producer Lloyd “Bullwackie” Barnes who ran the Wackies label in the Bronx.

The resulting album, a seminal six-track record called Dance Hall Style, not only influenced the dancehall reggae sound with its layered instrumentals but also reflected a shifting dynamic in Horace’s sound – from the sunny Caribbean island to the darker, wintry sonics of displacement in a New York borough.

But Horace’s most famous tracks, on this side of the Atlantic at least, are those he recorded with Bristol-based trip hop pioneers Massive Attack.

Ironically, the duo are often assumed to have been Horace’s patrons, but in reality when they approached the reggae singer in 1990, 3D and Daddy G were musical nobodies in comparison to the established artist they were majorly influenced by and contacting on the off chance they’d pique his interest.

“I just did one song with them, One Love,” Horace said, of his first single with the band on their debut album Blue Lines.

“But eventually it led up to better things, you know. I’m still touring with them. They can’t do it without me, love.”

Horace’s distinctively slow, sweet vibrato reverberates over atmospheric, bass-heavy tracks in every album Massive Attack has recorded – the only artist of their many collaborators to feature on every LP release.

He was living in Ladbroke Grove, West London, when they began recording together, and the ominous sounds of their most famous collaborations such as Angel (from Massive Attack’s 1998 album Mezzanine, and a rewritten version of Horace’s mid-70s track You Are My Angel) and Splitting The Atom (from the 2009 album Heligoland) demonstrate an extension of the more ethereal, haunting sound he developed in the Bronx.

Making music with Massive Attack both exposed Horace’s music to a younger generation of fans and linked him inextricably to the UK music scene.

“I first performed in London more than 30 years ago,” he said as the cockerel launched into another fit of crows.

“Damn this rooster.

“It’s so long ago I can’t even remember it, love. I lived in London a long time, over 15 years. I decided to go back to Jamaica because here is my foundation, here is my children.”

So having been away from the city close to his heart, what is Horace looking forward to doing when he comes back to the UK capital, his former home, the city of music?

“Honestly, love, I just sit down and watch sports,” he said. “Sports and news. I watch any kind of news and every sport, man. Football, badminton, everything.

“But not golf.”

Want to catch a glimpse of one of Jamaica’s long-time musical legends? Give up any hope of spotting him around town and secure a ticket for one of his Boisdale shows instead.

What should we expect from his sets?

“I never plan what music I will play,” he said. “I never can tell, until the day comes.”

Suffice to say, it’ll be a memorable night. boisdale.co.uk/music

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The Wharf

Walk the walk: interview with dominatrix and empowerment coach Madam Storm

Dominatrix, motivational speaker, seduction tutor. I knew from the start Madam Storm would be a formidable woman. But I wasn’t prepared for how down-to-earth and downright lovely the female empowerment coach would be.

“Hi darling,” she cried as I stepped into The Book Club in Shoreditch, leaping up from her latte in a flurry of faux fur, leather and stilettos the same crimson shade as her lipstick. “You’re beautiful.”

If Madam Storm’s job is to make women feel good about themselves, the first two minutes of our meeting showed her to be a total pro.

We’d met to discuss her Strut masterclasses, which she started running in September last year. In the sessions, Madam Storm teaches women to walk confidently in high heels. But it’s about much more than that.

“Strut is all about not giving a shit,” she said. “It’s about you saying, I am here, I am powerful, I own my sexuality and I am authentic. “A strut is me.”

Towering more than six feet in her heels and having worked as a dominatrix for 11 years, Madam Storm comes across as the epitome of confidence and sass. But I quickly learned she didn’t always feel so comfortable in her own skin – despite the fact she’d always been strutting.

“People celebrate me for being this confident, sexy woman and everyone wishes they had it,” the 34-year-old said.

“But it’s a blessing and a curse. I had so many challenges growing up. I was sexually assaulted, I was bullied. I had my power taken away from me and my coping mechanism was to be like, ‘No, fuck that. I’m going to take back my power’.”

Madam Storm grew up on an estate in Tulse Hill, relocating to Vauxhall (where she now lives again with her boyfriend) and eventually Croydon as a teenager.

“I didn’t grow up with privilege,” she said. “I grew up poor. My parents were cleaners and I remember getting up at four in the morning to go to work with them.

“But from Vauxhall you can see central London. I remember even then thinking, one day I’m going to be out there, exploring the world.

“Now I’m in black taxis going over the river. I’m like, yay!”

Growing up, her struggles had nothing to do with an identity crisis.

“I remember being 11 and knowing what it was to be sexy,” she said. “To know you have some sort of power that allures the opposite sex. But it kind of fucked with me. There was no way I could switch it off or tone it down because I didn’t know what I was doing.

“I’ve always been tall and curvy, and I’ve always strutted. I’d walk into a room and command all this attention, but that came with bullying. I ended up going to seven different schools.

“I had a really hard time being me. Adults would feel uncomfortable around me and that would make me feel uncomfortable – dirty and ashamed about being the person I am. As a teenager, you’re not allowed to express yourself in a sexual way and for it to be positive.”

In her early 20s, Madam Storm found a non-judgemental environment for the first time – in a community she’d only heard spoken about negatively before.

“Being a dominatrix allowed me to express myself for the first time after all those years of being bullied for who I was,” she said.

“I finally found a place where women were supportive of me. They loved the fact I was tall, and different – they encouraged me.

“And suddenly I had men who wouldn’t even look at me without my permission, who would treat me with the utmost respect.

“Being a dominatrix healed and empowered me. It is the most empowering feeling when you walk into a room and don’t even speak, but just you walking around the room makes someone tremble.

“I grew up on an estate where I couldn’t even go to the shops without being harassed. I was bullied for having this attitude and presence, but then in domming I was celebrated for it and I could whip the shit out of men at the same time. I was like, ‘Yes’.

“I like that exchange of power. And then to get paid shitloads of money for it? It’s like, ‘Alright, I did that, girl’. It was very therapeutic for me.”

It also opened up to her a life of glamour – “I said to myself, one day I’ll live in Chelsea. And I ended up living just off the King’s Road and thought, I made it” – but the lifestyle that accompanied the scene didn’t always have a positive effect.

“Earning that much money at such a young age, you get caught up in drugs and alcohol,” she said. “That fuelled the demons I had from being sexually abused. I used to sleep until 3pm because I could. One hour’s work domming would be the same as someone else’s wage for a week.

“One day I was like, ‘No, this isn’t it’. I couldn’t have gone through all this and for it to not be for a reason. “I always felt I had a purpose.”

Madam Storm swapped partying for early-morning exercise and eventually competing in the World Bodybuilding Federation.

“It changed my life,” she said. “People saw my transition and were inspired by it. I got flooded with messages saying: ‘You’re such an inspiration, I love your confidence’ – but I was just being myself.

“But I loved the feeling that I was making people feel good about themselves.

“I always had the ability to make other women feel empowered. Because I was bullied, I couldn’t understand why someone would want to make someone else feel shit about themselves.

“I was the girl who’d walk into MAC, see you putting on a lipstick and say: ‘Oh my god, that looks so cute on you’. I thought, I’m going to get into coaching – not fitness, but the mindset side.

“My personal journey of healing has brought me to where I am today, empowering women. I feel that it’s my purpose in life. The women I coach message me literally all the time, saying: ‘Thank you, you inspire me, you empower me’.

“But really I need to thank them. They’ve helped me as much as I’ve helped them.”

Which brought us back to Strut. How exactly does a strutting session go down?

“When ladies first walk into my strut masterclass I make it my business to hug each and every one of them and give them a kiss,” she said. “Before we start anything I create a circle and say: ‘This is a safe, non-judgemental space. You are amongst girlfriends’.

“Each person says something about why they’re there, which allows other people to be like, oh my god, me too. It gives them something in common and they realise that we’re on a journey together. Then we do a warm-up. We each say: ‘I am powerful’ and have 20 other people saying back: ‘Yes you are’.”

Then comes the strutting.

“We have five different struts,” said Madam Storm. “The power strut, the pussycat strut (which is everybody’s favourite), the sass, the seductive and the diva.

“The power strut is all about you standing up nice and tall, owning your space. A lot of women, especially tall women, don’t want to draw too much attention so they hunch their shoulders over and they look down.

“This is about self-confidence and being able to walk into a room and command that attention. And so you should, because you’re a beautiful woman and you’re okay with yourself.

“The pussycat strut is very, very sexy. It’s about you bringing out your sexy goddess and showing off.

“You touch your neck, you move seductively and you say: ‘Look at me, aren’t I beautiful, aren’t I sexy’.”

Do women feel awkward, I wondered, testing out their struts for the first time?

“I’m very good at reading body language after so many years being a dom – I know when someone’s not feeling comfortable,” Madam Storm said.

“Of course everyone’s going to feel a little bit uncomfortable because they’re in a new place.

“But I see the difference from when they first walk in. By the second strut they’re like, ‘Yas honey’. They’re giving it all this sass, blowing kisses to themselves. It’s absolutely incredible.”

Women attend the strut masterclasses for a variety of reasons.

“The common denominator is confidence,” she said. “They want to learn how to walk in their stilettos. They want to learn how to command attention in a positive way. They want to feel empowered and confident with themselves.”

But for many, it’s an emotional experience – and Madam Storm takes her job to hand-hold them through it very seriously.

“Women cry in my masterclasses because for once they’re being celebrated for who they are, no matter their shape, size, colour, what they do for a living,” she said.

“I have women who have been sexually assaulted and feel uncomfortable with being sexy again – because they feel like if they are, they deserved it.

“Then they come into this safe space and they’re like, ‘No’. I don’t have to hide my breasts, or my legs. Why should I have to wear a hoodie so someone doesn’t look at me?

“And they fall in love with themselves all over again.”

Others come to Madam Storm’s masterclasses to face their bodyimage struggles, which sometimes make it hard for them to even look at their own reflection.

“If someone’s not looking in the mirror, no one says anything but they’re all watching,” she said.

“There was one lady who wouldn’t look in the mirror throughout the whole class until the very last strut – and everyone was like, ‘Yeah!’ And clapped and cheered for her. It was so beautiful.”

But be warned – one word is banned in the sessions.

“People aren’t allowed to say, ‘I’m bringing out my inner Beyoncé’,” she said.

“No you’re not, goddammit.

“You’re bringing out the inner Susie, the inner Sam, the inner Jessica. This trend of always relating yourself to a celebrity? It’s bad business and it’s bad for your self-esteem.

“You are you. And that’s why you are so beautiful and so perfect. Because you’re the only one that looks like you. That’s why we create our own struts in the masterclasses. I say, I’m going to give you the techniques and the mindset, but I want you to be you.”

For Madam Storm, femininity means power. But in our society, these two words aren’t always seen together, especially in professional contexts.

So I asked her how women could use the power of the strut and all the lessons of self-love learned from it, to get to the top in business?

“I don’t understand the idea that if a woman is strong or has authority, then she’s not feminine,” said Madam Storm.

“Why? I see a lot of women who are like, ‘I work in a corporate company and men won’t respect me if I’m feminine’.

“But when you’re trying to seduce somebody – and when I talk about that I don’t just mean in the bedroom, we’re seduced every day, by politicians, adverts – ‘Ooh, I want to have that chocolate cake.’ That chocolate cake is seducing you, honey – you don’t match masculinity with masculinity. It doesn’t work that way.

“If you lead naturally with your masculine energy, then cool, do that. But if your personality is to lead with your feminine energy, and you feel suppressed because you don’t want them to not take you seriously?

“Just be your authentic self because that’s when you’re at your happiest, most free and most powerful.

“Wear that nice perfume. Wear that red lipstick. Don’t hide. The more we hide away, the less people are going to know we’re there.

“So sit up, shoulders up. You’re a beautiful woman. If you want to flip your hair, girl, flip your hair. Ask questions, put your hand up, speak up, speak loud.

“That will project confidence – I am proud of being a woman and fuck what you think.”

Madam Storm should know, considering the barriers she came up against in setting up her business in the way she wanted to.

“I had big marketing directors and PR agents saying to me I looked too intimidating,” she said. “It was the same shit I got in school. ‘No, don’t put that picture up. Don’t tell them you’re a mistress. Don’t swear.’ But I fucking swear.

“If I’m going to empower women to be themselves, I can’t be a fraud. I have to be myself.

“This is why I get so teary when I get these messages from people. Because I had to fight so hard to be me.

“So my advice? Free yourself from self-judgement. Once you do that, you free yourself from judgement from others.

“Accept who you are. Stop comparing yourself to others. Just stop. Today. Right now. And fall in love with yourself again.” teachmestorm.co.uk

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The Wharf

How Stemettes helps girls into science, technology, engineering, and maths

Despite being one of three girls out of 70 students taking her Mathematics And Computer Science Master’s degree, Anne-Marie Imafidon didn’t realise that as a woman in tech, she was a minority.

After completing her University Of Oxford education at 19 – the youngest-ever Master’s graduate – she kick-started her career at Goldman Sachs, Hewlett Packard and Deutsche Bank, but still didn’t notice a gender imbalance in her industry.

Then, in 2012, an impassioned keynote speech by technical executive Nora Denzel opened her eyes – for good.

“It was at the Grace Hopper Celebration Of Women And Computing conference,” the now-28-year-old Anne-Marie said. It’s the world’s biggest conference for women in tech, with 20,000 attendees this year.

“Only when I found myself in a majority-female tech environment did I realise I hadn’t experienced it before. I’d been in majority-female environments in the hairdresser or in the loo, but not at work.

“At university I was never singled out for being female. And at work I must have been the only young, black, female east Londoner on the team, but I’d never been made to feel other.

“So I decided to make sure other people could join the party.”

That party is Stemettes, a social enterprise she launched the following year, based at Here East in Stratford. It holds regular public events – hackathons, school trips to tech firms, panel talks and Monster Confidence career workshops (held in tandem with the job site Monster) – in a bid to inspire and encourage young women and girls to get into science, technology, engineering and mathematics (Stem) fields.

“It’s a space for young women to explore, be themselves and get technical,” Barking-born Anne-Marie said.

In less than four years Stemettes has reached nearly 40,000 young people via its free events supported by industry partners Salesforce, Accenture and Deutsche Bank – and 95% of attendees say their interest in Stem subjects increased thanks to the experience.

It’s earned Anne-Marie an MBE and, on October 15 this year, a Barclays Women Of The Year award. But the entrepreneur is focused on her goal to change the narrative for women working in tech. Currently, women make up 14.4% of all people working in Stem in the UK, despite being half of the overall workforce.

The Government has set a goal to increase this to 30%, which is calculated to boost the UK’s labour value by over £2 billion.

But in order to do this, women have to see be attracted to the Stem industries in the first place. What are the barriers in place?

“It’s mostly about social norms and the conditioning that we give girls from a young age,” said Anne-Marie. “What it is to be a young woman and what they’re capable of.

“It’s that dead white guy thing. Everyone you learn about in these subjects is dead, white and male. We need to tell the herstory of it all, so we’re not always talking about Einstein or Brunel.

“All girls hear is, you’ll never be a dead white guy, so this isn’t for you.”

This clearly wasn’t the case for Anne-Marie, though. Something of a child prodigy, she had passed two GCSE exams, in maths and IT, by age 11.

“I didn’t even realise I could do technology as job until I was 16,” she said. “For me, discovering tech was a very personal, creative, enjoyable experience that I was doing for myself. It’s the same for most women in the industry. But you shouldn’t have to be a particular kind of person to do this. It should be accessible for all.”

According to Anne-Marie, attracting girls to Stem is best achieved through positive reinforcement and role models.

“We need to talk about the women that have been,” she said. “We all use Wi-fi, which was created by a woman, Hedy Lamarr. But no one logs onto the internet and says: ‘Thank you Hedy’.

“Hedy had to famously battle the fact that she was a pretty Hollywood actress, so no one took her seriously enough. We need to be better at the narratives and stories that we tell.”

And one way to do that is via Anne-Marie’s workshops, which she runs according to her principals of the three Fs – free, fun and with food.

“We have Beyoncé playing in the background,” she said. “It has to be a positive experience.”

Part of that positivity is changing girls’ preconceptions of Stem subjects as uninteresting or not for them – a problem that perpetuates despite the fact that teenage girls generally outperform boys in Stem classwork, but worse in tests, pointing to issues of confidence surrounding their place in these subjects.

“Scientific careers are very creative and altruistic,” she said. “We don’t talk about that enough. It’s not about making loads of money, it’s about solving problems and helping people.”

By realising the depth and variety that Stem careers offer, the goal is for girls to reevaluate what they think they know about science, tech, engineering and maths.

What’s the future looking like for Anne-Marie and Stemettes?

“The overall aim is that Stemettes isn’t needed anymore,” she said. “To have more than just the stereotypes we have, so no one can say, women don’t do tech – because there’ll be enough examples to prove them wrong.”

Just how long that could take is impossible to predict.

“Culture can change quite quickly, and this is a culture game,” said Anne-Marie. “But I want Stemettes to make a dent and then I want to do something else. I want to be able to say, this was a step.

“After that, I don’t know. Maybe I’ll become a tech comedian.”

If she does, the multi-talented entrepreneur will surely nail it. Who’s betting she could take on the comedy industry gender bias, too? stemettes.org

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b.inspired

Waste busters: Accra’s eco-minded social entrepreneurs

The junk architect

Artist Samuel Ansah finds beauty in unlikely junkyard scraps

At the entrance to Accra’s most unusual house, the makeshift wall is bejewelled with colourful ceramic shards, glinting in the sunlight. Look closer and they’re actually the fragments of hundreds of smashed mugs, their disjointed handles mixed with mortar. This is the first of countless weird and wonderful details at the Wheel Story House, the creation of eccentric artist Samuel Ansah, who has built a topsy-turvy mansion entirely from reclaimed wood and junkyard finds.

He began building it 20 years ago, when he collected 500 wooden cable reels discarded by a local telecoms company. “I decided to rescue these empty wheels and turn them into something beautiful and useful,” he says, leading me around the house garden, which is dotted with fabulously Frankenstein-like sculptures that he assembled from the disjointed body parts of statues found in the trash. “I don’t believe in waste. If I can recycle rubbish and help the world, then why not?”

The house’s main structure took just eight months to build, with the help of 15 local carpenters and artisans, but Ansah has been adding to it ever since, building furniture and extra storeys as he sees fit. Local junk sellers bring him a continual supply of materials and he welcomes tourists and local schoolchildren for tours, to teach them the essentials of re-use and resourcefulness.

“A cable wheel is like Lego,” he smiles. “All the elements are there – the segments can build anything.” It’s this ethos that’s leading Ansah and a small team of dedicated associates towards their future plans: to apply the artist’s imaginative methods and materials to fill a crucial need for sustainable and cheap construction in Ghana’s rural, poorer provinces.

The group plans to upcycle discarded junk to build schools and hospital beds where they’re most needed – and, as always, Ansah has a madcap idea to kick things off. As we reach the side of the house, the artist gestures towards a dozen ceramic toilet bowls that are piled up by the fence. “I want to make schools out of toilets!” he cries. There’s no doubt in my mind that he’ll do just that. thewheelstory.org

The plastic weavers

The team at Trashy Bags crafts accessories from garbage to raise awareness about recycling and reuse

In Ghana, an estimated 270 tons of plastic waste is produced per day – of which only two per cent is recycled. But for entrepreneur Stuart Gold and director of production Elvis Aboluah, the discarded drinks sachets that make up the majority of this waste are an opportunity for ingenuity. Gold founded Trashy Bags in 2007 – an Accra-based social enterprise that employs around 60 local people to craft backpacks, laptop cases and multiple-use shopping bags out of unprocessed plastic waste, up to 400kg of which is delivered to their sprawling workshop each day.

“Beyond making bags, we want to make a positive impact,” says Aboluah. It’s important to the social enterprise to raise awareness, by running regular campaigns supported by High Commissions and NGOs. “With adults, it’s difficult to change perspectives, so we’re focusing on kids – making and distributing school bags to educate about pollution. For a lot of them, it’s beyond their imagination that a bit of plastic could take 500 years to biodegrade.”

With a 20kg shopping bag priced at GHC23 (€4.10), the majority of buyers are international and online. “As all our products are handmade, there’s a minimum price point,” says Aboluah, adding that the long-term goal is to protect the local population and environment. “Our biggest ambition is to see a better environment where we can all live without the danger of pollution.” trashybags.org

The natural artisan

Yasmeen Helwani is passionate about uniting Accra’s eco-minded citizens with surrounding rural communities

Laid out on wooden shelves that line white-painted walls, the rows of soap perfume the humid air with lemongrass, citronella and lavender. Jars of viscous, reddish-brown palm oil flank bottles of syrupy coconut oil that’s liquefied in the heat. And behind the counter, glamorous musician and eco-warrior Yasmeen Helwani is unscrewing a jar of body butter and breathing in its earthy, savoury-sweet scent. “Shea butter is one of the best moisturisers in the world, and we have it right here,” she smiles.

It all started some 15 years ago, when Helwani was at university in Canada and a friend sent her a bar of handmade, natural soap. “It made this soft, comforting lather, really bubbly and moisturising,” she recalls. “Since that day I’ve never bought another bar of regular soap.”

She enlisted in craft classes, graduated, and returned to Ghana to launch her eco-friendly brand Green Butterfly, through which she supports remote Ghanaian farmers and artisans with her shop, a mountain spa and events.

As well as selling handmade products from her (almost) zero-waste shop, which has vetoed all plastic packaging, Helwani runs a monthly fair called Open Air Stock Exchange, which showcases the wares of 90 artisans – up from just 10 when she launched it in 2010. “At least 80% of the artisans I work with are women, because in this part of the world, sewing and small-scale crafts are classified as women’s work,” says Helwani. “At first, I was sponsoring them out of my own pocket because some of these women couldn’t even leave the house, because they didn’t have the money.”

Assisting female artisans to empower themselves is just as important to Helwani as educating the younger generation – the driving force behind her Mother Earth Festival in Langma, an hour from Accra (18-19 August).

“We want to bridge the huge gap between rich and poor,” she explains. “We want children from high-end schools who know all about reuse, reduce, recycle to interact with kids in the villages who don’t have access to it. When you leave Accra and see the plastic bags scattered across the savannah, reality hits you in the face. We need to work at education.” facebook.com/1greenbutterfly

The radical engineer

Nelson Boateng has a bold ambition to tackle plastic waste and youth unemployment all at once

An hour’s drive north-east into the Greater Accra Region, the town of Ashaiman makes a stark contrast to Accra proper. Congested, polluted and mostly made up of low-rise shanty houses, it’s also home to Nelplast – a plastic packaging and recycling factory which might just contain the answer to Ghana’s immense waste disposal problem.

Founder and CEO Nelson Boateng believes that innovation can drive drastic cultural change – beginning with himself. Having worked in plastic manufacturing and recycling since the age of 13, Boateng’s company primarily produces shopping bags – which, though made from recycled plastic, are one of the local environment’s main pollutants. “I felt bad because I create the poly bags that go out there to pollute,” he says. “But when we produce the poly bag we don’t wish to see it littering around. I asked myself, what do I do to help this?”

Boateng designed and built from scratch a low-emissions machine that makes building blocks out of a mixture of melted plastic waste (mainly water bottles and sachets) and sand. Operated manually, the machine produces 200 one-square-foot blocks per day, which sell for 3.5 Ghana cedis (€0.63) – a cheap price, due to the abundance of the raw materials used. If he manages to draw enough investors, Boateng plans to purchase automated machines, scale up the production to 15,000 blocks per day – which would recycle 20,000kg of plastic daily – and employ more young people. “If youth unemployment goes down, crime will go down,” he explains. “These are big problems in Ashaiman, but finding plastic waste is easy.” Nelplast currently employs 64 people directly and indirectly supports an additional 500, who collect plastic waste from the surrounding area and sell it to the company. With the right moulds, the durable material could be used to build anything from roof sheets to septic tanks.

And while there’s an irony in continuing to produce plastic bags alongside the far more sustainable building blocks, Boateng is adamant that an abrupt end to plastic production would be short-sighted. “People rely on me to put food on the table – and I know how hard it is when you don’t have something to eat,” he says. Instead, the trick is to show people that waste plastic can be profitable. “The time will come when it’s difficult to find plastic in the environment in Ghana – like what happened with scrap metal. If people can build houses with this waste, or cheaper roads, why would they throw it away?”

Looking ahead, Boateng has fielded interest from recycling facilities in Nigeria, Gabon and India – but his priority is to take care of his own community first. “My dream is to see zero waste and zero unemployment in Ashaiman. This product creates cheaper roads, jobs, and it cleans the environment. It’s three in one – the perfect innovation.” nelplastgh.com

The fashion innovator

Having launched her social enterprise while at university, Mabel Suglo is dedicated to turning trash to treasure

She knows how to use fashion to command a room – but there’s more to Mabel Suglo’s elegant outfit than a keen eye for style. Her beaded sandals were handmade from discarded car tyres, and her jewellery from recycled glass, for her label Dignified Wear, which employs artisans with physical disabilities, and women in rural communities; her tunic was woven by women in the remote Wa region.

Suglo’s childhood visits to see her late grandmother, who had leprosy, planted the seed for the clothes and accessories line. “My grandmother was my heroine. She was stigmatised and marginalised, but she never gave up,” recalls Suglo. “Growing up I saw this inequality in the employment system in Ghana, where people with disabilities move to the cities to seek greener pastures and end up begging on the streets.”

Suglo asked a man who was begging if, instead, he’d be willing to work for her. He told her he was a former sandal maker, and remembering the hardwearing tyre sandals that her grandmother wore – and aware of the surplus of car tyres in landfills across the country – Suglo decided to bring all these elements together and her label was born.

While Suglo plans to invest in automated machines to increase production and her international presence, social mobility in Ghana will always remain at the core of her ethos. “People take ownership of their lives when they are financially free,” she smiles. “It’s a question of just giving them a chance and a platform.” dignifiedgh.com

The startup guru

For artist-innovator Makafui Awuku, plastic waste is a creative opportunity

Last Christmas, this forward-thinking poet, author and social entrepreneur craved one thing above all else. “I wanted an awareness that plastic is not waste,” he says, sat in a shady courtyard in the Accra suburb of Madina where his startup, MckingTorch Creatives, is based. “So I decided to create something to influence people’s behaviour.” Awuku built a towering Christmas tree from 396 discarded plastic bottles strung together and installed it on a major street nearby. It was there for five weeks, with around 30,000 people passing it per day.

“People were astonished by it,” he remembers. “I thought, we can commercialise this, make jobs and solve the plastic waste problem all at once.”

Six months later, Awuku leads a team of five full-time employees, who collect plastic waste from people’s homes and remodel it into a range of homeware products and accessories: rubbish bins, flower pots and laundry baskets are made from bottles, and plastic carrier bags are woven into sandals, bracelets and artworks. Awuku is dedicated to not only addressing Ghana’s plastic waste disposal challenges, but the current lack of employment opportunities for young people in Accra. “If we see waste as a raw material and resource, we can create jobs,” he says, revealing his plans to expand beyond Ghana as a franchise. “We want to change the narrative for Africa by creating a product we can send into the European market – we need to take global action if we want to fix the world’s plastic problem.” mckingtorch.com

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b.inspired

Talk of the town: fine dining in Freetown

“I was born in Freetown but moved to London in 1990 when I was 16. At first I wanted to be an accountant, but my interest in food grew and I decided to do my chef’s qualifications first. I won best student of the year and my first work experience was at the Hilton Hotel on Park Lane. I never became an accountant in the end.

“After 20 years in London I moved back to Sierra Leone and started doing private catering, cookery classes and pop-up dinners – the first one I did was in a secluded spot at Hamilton Beach, south of Freetown, in 2012. The guests didn’t know the location until the day before. We laid out cushions on the sand for watching the sunset, then served them a four-course meal with local music and finished with a big bonfire on the beach. After that night, my phone didn’t stop ringing.

“All Freetown’s high-end restaurants are Mediterranean or Lebanese, and if you ask for the African dish of the day, it’s usually just jollof rice. But there’s so much variety in Sierra Leone and I want visitors to discover it, to help my country grow – that’s why I’m opening Cotton Tree.

“I host a TV show on African Young Voices TV called Treat Food. I go around tasting street food, learning how to make it authentically, and then I go to my kitchen and do my own take on it. I did one about traditional barbecue meat, which I served in a salad. People were shocked!

“One dish I love is cassava bread. It’s a kind of pancake made with ground cassava, served with a whole fried fish with a gravy stew. But I made it into a dessert, layered with hibiscus, ice cream and pineapple syrup. It’s unconventional but the people who tried it were licking their plates.

“Supporting the local economy is so important to me. Everyone at the local markets knows me because I’m there every other day. My vegetable sellers understand that my green beans must be green, my lettuce can’t be limp. At first my fishmonger thought I was too fussy, but now she always sells me the freshest, best seafood.” susansenesie.com

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b.inspired

Dawn of the superheroes: International Women’s Day 2018

Dieynaba Sidibe, Senegal’s first female graffiti artist

When Dieynaba Sidibe decided, age 14, that she was going to be an artist, her idol was Leonardo da Vinci – a far cry from the street artists that would end up nourishing her talent. “As a teenager I was already a great artist at heart,” she says. “Then I discovered graffiti on television and decided to learn.” Her first experiment? Painting the world ‘DIALOULE’ – the name of her mother’s home village – on a wall in the suburb of Thiaroye, where she grew up in Dakar. “I felt like I had a won a trophy, I was so proud of myself,” she smiles.

However, it was linking up with urban arts association Africulturban that secured Sidibe’s street artist status – particularly at its Urban Session festival in 2007. She debuted as the only woman in Dakar’s graffiti network, painting colourful bubble writing and floral designs previously unseen on the city’s walls.

But despite being outnumbered (though other women have painted there, she’s currently the only one in Senegal to practice in an official context, as far as she’s aware), Sidibe feels that gender is irrelevant at the cultural centre where she spends the majority of her time. “Graffers in Senegal work in a pack. I’ve never received special treatment for being a woman,” she insists.

“If doing a piece of graffiti means that I have to climb some scaffolding, nobody can do that for me. It’s helped me to dare to do things for myself.”

Johanna Quaas, the world’s oldest gymnast

Quaas was just three years old when she got hooked on gymnastics. For the 92-year-old from Hohenmölsen, Germany ‒ who took part in her first competition aged nine ‒ not even the Second World War or the subsequent Allied Control Council’s gymnastics ban could dissuade her from pursuing her passion (although she did temporarily switch to handball and become a national champion in 1954). In the end, it was becoming a teacher and mother to three daughters that finally forced Quaas to take a break from professional sport. Though not for long.

“At the age of 56, when the children left home, I became a competitor again,” she grins, adding that she’s travelled all over the world for events. “In 2000 I became German Senior Champion 11 times in a row – and achieved the Guinness World Record for the world’s oldest gymnast in 2013.”

During her lifetime, Quaas says she has observed many changes for women in sport. “It’s not always been this accessible, and it still isn’t in many countries,” she says. “Sport is taken for granted by women and girls today. But, it’s an important and valuable component in a modern society, especially with a more sedentary lifestyle.”

Glamorous in her emerald leotard and with a motto that laughs in the face of ageing – “those who rest, rust” – it’s clear that Quaas takes nothing for granted.

Kadiatu Kamara, Sierra Leone’s first female surfer

The first time Kadiatu Kamara waded into the Atlantic Ocean with a shortboard, aged 16, she had no idea how to swim – let alone surf. “I was scared of the waves, scared of the board, scared of sharks,” recalls the now 21-year-old from Bureh Town, a small commune beside the idyllic Bureh Beach.

It’s largely due to growing up next to this stretch of unspoilt sand – which is home to the only surf club in Sierra Leone, run by a group of local twentysomethings – that KK, as she’s known locally, ventured into the water at all. “I saw the boys surfing, but I never saw a girl among them,” she explains. “I decided to join the club so that men and women can surf together.”

Yet, it wasn’t a decision many initially took seriously. “At first, the boys made fun of me when I fell in the water,” says KK. “Sometimes they’d take my board away so that I had to swim, even though I was scared.” It was a real baptism of fire, but it – along with KK’s natural powers when it came to riding the waves and sheer determination – soon won the surf club’s members over. “The boys taught me everything,” she admits with a grin.

Becoming an accepted member of the Bureh Beach Surf Club wasn’t the only thing KK had to contend with. Surfing as a woman in Sierra Leone is seen as a radical act – and therefore, rarely welcomed by the community. “People in the village say I am wasting my time at the beach,” she admits. “I try to encourage other girls to surf, but most of their mums are scared of the water and won’t let them go near it.”

But KK’s focused on the long term. In December 2017, she qualified as the only female contestant in the country’s first national surf championships, and hopes that every success will help to encourage more girls and women to take to the waves in her country. “I want to surf for my country and win the debut surf event at the 2020 Olympics,” she beams. “If girls in Sierra Leone saw that, they would be inspired to surf.”

Anne-Sophie Pic, the only female chef in France to hold three Michelin stars

Following in the footsteps of two titans of French cuisine was always going to be daunting. Anne-Sophie Pic’s father was Jacques Pic, head chef of three-Michelin-starred Valence restaurant Maison Pic, a family business and one of France’s most revered venues. Jacques developed his culinary talent under his father André Pic – the man responsible for securing the Maison Pic’s first Michelin star.

It’s unsurprising, perhaps, that Anne-Sophie Pic headed out of her father’s kitchen in her early 20s and into business school. But her decision to return after graduation in 1992 came with a caveat that no one could’ve predicted: Pic’s father passed away three months later, leaving her unexpectedly in charge, aged 23, of a kitchen full of older (mainly male) chefs.

“People didn’t think I was able to do this job, though I was in my own home,” she recalls. “For a long time, I thought I didn’t deserve to be there.” Though her youth played a part, Pic knew there was a larger context at play: one in which women didn’t go to culinary school, and that let high-pressured kitchens run on testosterone.

After a year of grieving, Pic left the kitchen once more. It was only when the restaurant lost its third Michelin star in 1995 that Pic returned as head chef with a renewed ambition to win it back. It took 12 years, but she succeeded – and became the only female three-Michelin-starred chef in France. Pic rejects the shouting matches of her father, and grandfather’s, kitchen – which she sees as a step towards re-addressing the industry gender balance.

“As a woman, I always have to prove more, but it allows me to not rest on my laurels and continue to challenge myself,” says Pic. Her advice to young woman chefs? “Stay female. You’ll be surrounded by men, and you can learn from them, but never change yourself.”

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New Internationalist

Making waves: how a radio opera is bridging social gaps

At the end of a 100-kilometre drive from Amman, through barren, ochre desert, a sea of pointed white roofs glints on the horizon. Gain some ground, and 10,000 metal huts emerge from the haze. This is Azraq, an isolated refugee camp in Jordan, 90 kilometres from the Syrian border, where 35,449 refugees currently live – most having fled from war-torn Aleppo.

Venture into the heart of the camp, where homogeneous ‘villages’ have been built around water taps, and you will find something unexpected: some of the huts’ blank exteriors have been painted in a shock of primary colours. This is the work of Artmongers, a South London-based collective on a mission to create beauty in the face of adversity. Co-directors Patricio Forrester and Catherine Shovlin first came to Azraq in 2015, having been granted access via the US humanitarian organization CARE, to assess wellbeing (with the help of some Syrian teenagers collecting data) before and after running this wall-painting project.

During her time at the camp, Shovlin – a social researcher for governments and NGOs – discovered women were at a disadvantage in terms of social connection. ‘I was struck by the isolation of many women there, who for various cultural, social and emotional reasons weren’t leaving their shelters,’ she explains. ‘Sixty per cent of women hadn’t seen anybody the day before they took the survey. Cut off from friends and social connections, they sit inside their safe but uninspiring shelters just waiting for the days to go by.

When her survey revealed that recorded wellbeing among women in the camp had improved by 40 per cent since the painting project, Shovlin devised a second programme, in the hope of sparking the kind of community support that she saw was lacking.

Fast-forward two years, and Shovlin is taking turns with five chattering Syrian women to haul a heavy speaker on a trolley along the dirt-track veins of Azraq camp. She had approached the women at the camp’s community-centre sewing group with the aim of airing audio material around the camp’s public spaces, starting with Hay el Matar (hayelmatar.com), a UNHCR-approved, Arabic-language radio soap opera written by and for Syrian refugees in Beirut. The drama touches on civil war, domestic violence, education and migration, through the lens of classic soap-opera tropes: love affairs, family disputes and personal conflicts.

‘When we first approached them, they were a bit puzzled,’ Shovlin recalls. ‘But when I explained how I’d noticed the isolation of women in the camp, they got it. They started bouncing ideas around on how else the portable speaker could be used – for storytelling, language lessons, even music from the camp’s own rapper.’

Despite a nervous first outing (‘These women aren’t used to standing out in public, so they were a bit scared’), by the afternoon of day one, the group had taken charge. They generated interest by blaring out songs by Syrian pop star Shahd Barmada at the camp’s supermarket and football pitch, where young men broke into spontaneous dance.

Having spent the morning spreading the word, a green tarpaulin mat was finally unfolded, eight stools laid out on top, and Shovlin pressed play for the first 15-minute episode.

‘At first it was just me and one other woman, with a circle of empty stools in the wind,’ smiles Shovlin. ‘But gradually women began to pop their heads out of their shelter doors.’ By the end of the week, 20 women would gather, along with their children, sitting on the tarpaulin and sharing stools.

For Shovlin, the goal is to encourage women within Azraq, and in other camps where the same project could be applied, to use the portable speaker – or ‘pop-up party’, as it has been coined by the refugees – as a tool to take ownership of the space. ‘People in refugee camps feel that they’re not allowed to do anything to improve their environment,’ she says. ‘But just gathering together allows women to share experiences, and to realize that there are things they can change. Art gives people a jolt. It makes them think again about things they’ve grown to accept.’

As for the women now running the project in Azraq, things continue to go well. ‘We’re 100-per-cent engaged with it and really happy to be recruiting new members,’ one tells us, while another claims: ‘The pop-up party has become a part of us. Now we’re all benefiting from that.’ refugeetwinning.org

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easyJet Traveller

Soul food: social street food in Paris

The air in the crowded square is thick with the scent of spices. Children chase giant, rainbow-tinted bubbles in the sun, while hip-hop reverberates between a clutter of makeshift stalls and vintage trucks, all displaying their wares on handwritten signs: there are Moroccan lamb kofte pancakes, Senegalese chicken curries and Thai-marinated skewers, the occasional crêpe thrown in for good measure.

On the surface, this gathering outside an old warehouse at Halle Pajol, near Paris’s Gare du Nord, appears entirely unremarkable – after all, such markets have long been a firm fixture in the likes of London, Amsterdam and Berlin – but Street Popote (which roughly translates as ‘street grub’) is special for two reasons.

For a start, it was only last summer that the French capital welcomed its first ever food-truck event in the form of Le Food Market, in Belleville, which drew over 8,000 visitors to just 15 stands selling foods from 15 different countries. It proved that after years of grudging resistance, the French had finally succumbed and started to embrace the global phenomenon.

But such events are still something of a novelty here. “We are really brilliant at food, but we’re traditional and there’s always some reluctance to new things,” explains Lionel Guérin, founder of Street Popote. “But in the past few years, Paris has become much more dynamic and suddenly street food is exploding.”

Street Popote can claim to be the city’s second street-food event, but it is also doing something that goes way beyond simply giving Parisians the opportunity to eat global cuisines. Each stall has a social project attached to it, incorporating communities and cuisines that rarely figure in Paris’s somewhat elite restaurant scene.

“There are a lot of talented people here who don’t have the opportunity to express it,” says Guérin. “I want to draw attention to them – and if I can help to show how enriching and tasty cultural diversity really is, I can go to bed each night and sleep very well.”

Now let’s meet some of those talented people…

The business innovators

In the heart of the busy market, Street Popote’s largest stall is engulfed in a haze of smoke. It’s pouring out from a sizzling grill stacked with Thai chicken satay and Senegalese beef skewers, diligently watched over by young chefs Jiap and Nesta. Beside them, on a polka-dot tabletop, a salad of marinated fish and papaya is prepared by Crystelle, originally from the Central African Republic.

These women are entrepreneurs with plans to open restaurants and catering businesses, and they’re here thanks to Paris’s only state-subsidised kitchen incubator: Plaine de Saveurs.

In the north-eastern suburb of Saint Denis, the nonprofit provides space for aspiring chefs to trial recipes and gain business advice. Each ‘incubee’ uses the kitchen for six months at the cost of just €200 a month – about the same amount as renting a parking space in the city.

“In central Paris, the international restaurant offering is very poor – mainly just kebabs, pizza and sushi,” claims Bertrand Allombert, who launched the incubator programme back in 2013, “but there are 140 nationalities in Saint Denis alone. We try to work with people who don’t have enough money to invest in or sustain a business.”

As far as Allombert is concerned, creating a market – rather than competing with the types of cuisine that dominate the capital’s food scene – is good business sense, but it’s also a way of encouraging interaction between different local communities.

“When people eat each other’s food, they have a better cultural understanding,” he smiles. “Food is peace.” plainedesaveurs.fr

The gourmet grannies

The nutty-sweet smell of browning butter catches in the breeze as Patricia Pastrana pours a ladle of batter into a frying pan. To her right is the crêpe filling responsible for the stall’s long queue – salted caramel. Born in Argentina, Pastrana married a Frenchman 40 years ago and has lived in Brittany ever since. Today marks her fi rst shift with Mamie Foodie, a catering company where grannies rule. Set up in 2015, Mamie Foodie was inspired by Asian street-food culture, which often sees older women touting street-side specialities.

“This isn’t just a business – it’s also a social project,” says cofounder Johanna Pestour. “In France, over a million pensioners from all different backgrounds say they feel isolated. Cooking with us gives them a chance to get out of their homes and have a validated place in society again.”

Anyone over 60 can apply to work with Mamie Foodie – the only requirement is the ability to cook for 15 people or more, with recipes that they bring with them from their respective home countries including Martinique, Sri Lanka and Mauritius. Th e 12 grandmothers and three grandpas with their eclectic recipes have proved a big hit at the events that Mamie Foodie caters for – as have the cooks themselves, who happily share their tips during the cross-generational natter that accompanies each event. For Pestour, it’s this social element that confirms exactly why she set up the project in the first place.

“We learn so much from these grandparents and we know that cooking with us can change their lives, too,” she says. mamiefoodie.com

The culinary fixer

“i was born in Marrakech, but grew up in France,” says Asmâa Benhamra. “I never had problems integrating, but I realised the main thing people associate with Morocco is its food and the reason it’s so good is because there’s a beautiful culture behind it. I decided it was time to show that.”

Last year, she created La Table d’Asmâa, catering events with modern Moroccan canapés and holding workshops to teach children about North African history and culture via its food.

She also runs Gratin d’Emploi, a networking event that puts recruiters and long-term job-seekers into a kitchen together, in a bid to take the pressure off and try to address the unemployment cycle.

Today’s menu features chicken tagine with olives, preserved lemons and potatoes; chicken and thyme-stuffed pastry parcels; roast-vegetable couscous; and mini sugar-glazed cakes, traditionally eaten during Ramadan. Each ingredient holds a significance for Benhamra, who believes that recipes passed from generation to generation are a mirror of the cultures they belong to.

“Take the simplest of ingredients: tomatoes and peppers,” she says. “Every country has a different way of preparing them, with their own spices and flavours, but the base is the same.” For Benhamra, this is a metaphor for people, and food is an effective medium for bridging any cultural gaps. “Whatever religious or political differences we might have, deep down everyone is the same and one thing we can all do is appreciate good food together.” latabledasmaa.com

The community artists

A bubbling pan of spiced sauce, spoon outstretched.

“Have a taste,” grins Mam Fedior, chef at Pitch Me, a West African restaurant in Paris’s buzzing République quarter. His stall at Street Popote is serving steaming bowls of his native Senegalese chicken yassa, a citrussy, fragrant curry, with green and red peppers adding colour to the chargrilled meat. “As soon as people taste this food, it brings them together – just look at us,” he laughs.

Fedior’s gesturing to his business partner, writer and documentary filmmaker Karim Miské, who was born in Paris to a Mauritanian father. Together with French journalist Sonia Rolley, the three friends opened a restaurant in 2012 that combined their talents, matching Fedior’s homegrown cuisine with a passion for film showings, concerts and book readings.

“The idea was to attract a new kind of clientele and bring West African food to a broader audience, rather than simply serving one community,” explains Miské. Events at their restaurant include book-reading sessions for unpublished authors and experimental film and documentary screenings, all accompanied by Fedior’s delicious dishes and refreshing juices made from hibiscus flower, ginger and tamarind. The diverse crowd settles in, with the act of sharing their creative projects over food helping to break down social barriers.

“When you eat dishes like yassa, you know there’s a long history behind them and you connect to it,” says Miské. “You don’t have to make some kind of political point about being ‘open to otherness’. When you eat together, it just comes naturally.” pitchmeparis.com

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easyJet Traveller

Has French hip hop lost its bad rap?

From the outside, it’s just another polished window in a row of commercial façades: Sephora, Lacoste, KIKO. But behind two sliding glass doors, a dance off is in session. Rapper Sofiane’s throaty growl reverberates from a boombox as dancers in snapbacks pop and lock to a whooping crowd and a backdrop of neon-coloured, spray-painted walls. It’s a Wednesday afternoon at La Place Centre Culturel Hip Hop, France’s first cultural centre dedicated entirely to hip hop in all its forms, from rap to street dance, graffiti to fashion.

Opened last October in the controversial Les Halles shopping mall – currently emerging from an eight-year, €1 billion reconstruction – the space comprises a gig venue (Oddisee & Good Company kick off this month); an auditorium for conferences and documentary screenings; recording, DJ and dance studios; and a co-working space. What makes La Place ground-breaking is that it was conceived of and largely funded by the Paris mayor’s office, marking a seismic shift away from France’s previous government rhetoric – past politicians have publicly blamed rappers’ lyrics for social unrest, at times even in court.

It comes at a revolutionary moment for French rap, with the country’s hottest artists using streaming sites such as Deezer and Spotify to challenge the status quo. Rap duo PNL, from the south Paris suburb Corbeil-Essonnes, exploded onto the scene in 2015 as a YouTube sensation. They’ve never done an interview or signed to a label – yet they topped the iTunes album chart last November. “Only hip hop artists are this entrepreneurial,” claims director of La Place, hip hop guru Jean-Marc ‘JM’ Mougeot, whose past lives as break dancer, DJ, radio producer and festival organiser made him a clear choice for the job. “It means that we’ll always have an interesting angle at La Place, based on each artist’s unique way of doing things.”

Les Halles, too, is a fitting location for La Place. Sitting above Châtelet – the biggest underground station in the world, and the convergence of Paris’s suburban train lines – the site is infamous for spontaneous street dance and music. Nevertheless, the shiny new mall presents a decidedly cleaned-up version of a setting once known for its gritty urban activity. Between La Place’s spotless walls and sunlit, ballet-ready dance studios, none of the socio-political commentary that’s historically characterised hip hop in France is palpable there. You’ve got to wonder: does a state-funded hip hop initiative mark the sanitisation of a genre defined in opposition to the establishment?

“Some artists are chasing an ideal,” contemplates house dancer Babson, who uses the space and is holding dance workshops there this month. “But the fact is that hip hop stopped being underground the moment it arrived on MTV. As soon as you commercialise something, it’s no longer underground.”

For the artists and employees working at La Place, official recognition of hip hop as an influential cultural movement comes not a moment too soon. As Paris’s deputy mayor Bruno Julliard puts it, “there is a strong tradition in France of public finance for cultural endeavours. Hip hop was the only one not yet benefitting from funding.” It’s worth noting, however, that receiving funding from the mayor’s office is still a far cry from winning a Ministry of Culture grant, awarded to more conservative institutions such as the Opéra-Comique and the Philharmonie concert hall.

In any case, for Babson, focusing on the funding misses the point. “Working with an institution is not the same as working for an institution,” he asserts. “And to evolve, you have to understand the structures in place.” OLKM broadcast journalist and rap expert Mehdi Maizi doubts that many young people will even question the centre’s funding, noting that French hip hop has become dramatically depoliticised since the noughties. “Rappers don’t believe in anything anymore – politics, God, love. If young people decide that La Place is cool, they will go there, simple as that.”

Which leaves us with the major challenge facing La Place: how will it appeal to the youngest generation of hip hop fans? In the directors’ efforts to appeal to a cross-generational audience, the programme is in danger of being a bit too old-school. One of its first concerts was by 90s MC KRS-One, who at 51 is ideal nostalgia-trip material – but doesn’t necessarily speak to the banlieue-based teens who listen to PNL, and who the centre ultimately hopes to reach.

“Maybe in 20 years’ time, rap will be like jazz, and old people will listen to it with a brandy while smoking a cigar. But right now, young people make the law,” says Maizi. “If La Place is disconnected from them, then it’s not speaking to the people who listen to hip hop every day. It has to be relevant. Rap can never be boring.” laplace.paris

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easyJet Traveller

How to smash through the glass ceiling: Tel Aviv’s women tech entrepreneurs

A weekday morning on Tel Aviv’s beach promenade. Bronzed 30-somethings jog under brilliant sunshine, preened dogs scurrying at their ankles. Baristas steam lattes and young guys in wetsuits ride the turquoise surf. But behind the pleasure-seeking surface, a quiet revolution is brewing, driven by young entrepreneurs, tapping on laptops and smartphones.

So far, so London or Berlin, you might think, but Tel Aviv differs from its rival tech hubs in one fundamental way (apart from the weather). There are currently over 1,000 startups in the city – fledgling businesses, usually internet based, and often nomadically run from cafés and workspaces around the city. Israel’s tech-obsessed financial centre is the most concentrated startup ecosystem outside of Silicon Valley in California and it’s growing fast: up 40% between 2012 and 2014. What’s more interesting, however, is that 20% of these are now run by women, according to the Compass Global Startup Ecosystem Report 2015 – the highest number of any city outside the USA and beating every European commercial capital. It begs the question: is Tel Aviv one of the best places on Earth to be a woman entrepreneur?

The city has come a long way. In 2012, only 9% of Tel Aviv’s entrepreneurs were female. Israel’s education system and the compulsory military service that all school leavers complete has played a big part in this. Among the various paths these conscripts pursue, the army’s cyber intelligence units are a popular choice and have proven to be a fertile breeding ground for some of the city’s most successful startup entrepreneurs. But with fewer girls studying hard science and maths at school, these units end up being largely male – and many who serve in them also go on to become board members on some of the city’s most influential tech investment bodies. This has, unsurprisingly, caused a powerful old-boy network to be formed – often to the detriment of female entrepreneurs who lack the connections to secure funding.

Enter Hilla Ovil-Brenner, who decidedto build similarly strong networks to give businesswomen a leg up. In summer 2013, she launched a ground-breaking programme called Campus for Moms, at Google’s headquarters in Tel Aviv, in partnership with her friend and business partner, Tal Sarig-Avraham. On the 34th floor of Electra Tower, the Campus is kitted out in Google’s trademark urban design, with vintage lamps spotlighting shared desk spaces.

“The idea came to us when I was on maternity leave and missing intelligent conversation. I kept meeting women who only wanted to talk about diapers,” Ovil-Brenner explains. “Babies are most welcome at Campus for Moms, but here women are encouraged to talk about their startup as well as their baby.”

The 10-week course hosts one meet-up per week, primarily for women on maternity leave who are looking for practical business guidance. As it’s grown in popularity, so has the diversity of applications. “We also have some dads on paternity leave, which is very encouraging,” says Ovil-Brenner. Industry experts and mentors hold workshops and lectures within the cheerful chaos that comes with a room full of infants. “Having major entrepreneurs as speakers changes the way female entrepreneurship is perceived and raises awareness to their need for support,” she says.

At the end of the course, the six most promising graduates pitch their business models to investors. “They are asked some tough questions, but they rock it,” says Sarig-Avraham.

For Ovil-Brenner, watching them develop is an emotional experience: “I cried on the first pitch night, I was so excited,” she admits. And, in less than three years, some 300 entrepreneurs have graduated from the Campus for Moms – and they sing its praises.

“Everything I learned here increased my confidence and success,” says Inbal Miron-Bershteyn, who founded KidkeDoo, a children’s online encyclopaedia. “To be an entrepreneur is like riding a roller-coaster. Having a supportive community that encourages you and believes in you is like the seatbelt that keeps you safe during the ride.”

Orly Shoavi, CEO of SafeDK, already had two young children when she began the programme. “I was concerned about being both highly involved in my kids’ lives and running a demanding business,” she says. “But seeing other moms build their companies and never look back gave me the confi dence to do it. I quit my job soon after.”

It helps that funding bodies are now becoming increasingly aware of the importance of investing in women’s ventures. “If I can help other women, I should. I see it as an obligation,” says Michal Michaeli, who worked her way up in high-tech for 15 years before setting up Eva Ventures in 2012 – a micro venture capital that invests in startups with at least one woman in a leadership role. “The more women there are in business, the easier it becomes to recruit more.”

Michaeli notes how the absence of women in business has its roots in childhood. “The sense you get is that you have to be beautiful and well behaved, not daring and smart,” she observes. “If a young girl is climbing a tree, she is usually told to be careful. If it’s a boy, he’s encouraged to explore and see what his limits are.”

Networking and funding are key, but the third ingredient for a successful startup is available workspace. Entrepreneur Merav Oren opened WMN last summer – a co-working space, which provides a temporary office for predominantly female-led startups. Five main meeting rooms are separated by soundproof glass, with notes scrawled over them in marker pen. The Mediterranean sun floods the desktops with natural light and weekly workshops and networking events are held by lawyers, tech experts and established entrepreneurs.

“It started because, as an entrepreneur myself, I felt alone working from home. I wanted to be surrounded by other women like me,” says Oren. “The only difference between WMN and any other co-working place is that I reach out and look for these women.” And they are happy to be found. During the first six months the space was open, it received over 100 applications from brand-new businesses needing desk space.

What of the women using WMN? “It makes a huge difference,” says client Limor Shilony, cofounder of a new app called Pauzz that helps dieters to manage cravings. “We inspire and help each other. It’s nice to see so many working towards their dreams.”

Ovil-Brenner also believes the environment fosters the different skills that women bring to the table, compared to their male counterparts: “Sensitivity, emotional intelligence, intuition and lack of ego.”

It’s easy to understand how quickly these powerful initiatives can shape the narrative in a small city of 400,000 residents. “We’re inside a revolution at the moment,” smiles Ovil-Brenner. “One day, someone will look back on 2015 and 2016 and say, ‘What a change those years made in women’s lives’.”

Categories
IBT

Knitting for freedom: the Faroese brand employing displaced women

Ever since Gudrun & Gudrun – the Faroese knitwear brand behind Sarah Lund’s woollen jumper in the cult Danish TV series, The Killing – stitched its first sweater, an ethos of sustainability was spun into the company’s fabric.

Not only did it champion traditional hand-knitting methods with its team of 30 knitters on the Faroe Islands, but it developed two fully-fledged women’s empowerment projects at outposts in Jordan and Peru, where they have employed between 25 and 30 local women since 2008 and 2012 respectively. The aim? To provide fair and culturally non-threatening income to women with limited moneymaking options due to the fact that, in both societies, they are expected to be homemakers.

The brand’s development work has now taken a step further as they have begun employing female refugees from Syria in their Jordanian outpost and helping them take a step towards regaining their freedom.

Disproportionately affected by the ongoing conflict, both within Syria and beyond, there are currently 655,217 UNHCR-registered Syrian refugees in Jordan, of which 36% are in female-headed households.

Already-stretched resources in Jordan mean that refugees – particularly women, due to entrenched social stigma – have trouble supporting themselves financially, and often must make impossible choices between family necessities: healthcare, food and shelter. Add social isolation and lack of income to the mix, and women become especially vulnerable to exploitation.

Enter Gudrun & Gudrun and their Jordanian project coordinator Hind Hammouqah who explains that while she hasn’t actively recruited knitters from refugee camps, Syrian women who have made it into Amman have contacted her after hearing about the opportunity for work. Experiencing the same traditional barriers that limit Jordanian women’s ability to work, but with the added complexity of starting from scratch, they are looking for opportunities for independence.

Once signed up, the knitters receive basic tuition, meet at a warehouse to pick up yarn and equipment, and follow knitting patterns at home as they work around their other family commitments.

“These women once had good lives in Syria, but were scared for their children’s safety when the war began. They came to Jordan to feel secure,” says Hammouqah. “There are NGOs here that can help with food and clothes, but not money.”

Knitting for Gudrun & Gudrun offers an opportunity to build a new life, and earning a salary brings with it a dignified place in society, as well as a supportive social circle – something that can’t be underestimated for Syrian women forced to leave everything behind. As the brand’s co-founder Gudrun Rógvadóttir has observed, the knitters’ personal experiences can be conveyed through the textiles they produce.

“It takes days or even weeks to knit a sweater. And during that time, you have good and bad times, and a lot of thoughts,” she reveals. “You can see it in the knitting if it was a tense or a relaxed day – if you’re stressed, you have a tighter hand.”

Can a woman’s story be stitched into fabric? “Work itself can be therapeutic, and focusing on a specific thing – knitting – can give you a break from thinking about past, current and future difficulties,” Rógvadóttir says. The end product can feel like a physical and remedial record of a chapter in a knitter’s life, and all the ups and downs that came with it.

Some refugees arrive in Amman in desperate need of medical attention, which – for those that are eligible for healthcare – is expensive.

“One of our knitters, Liza, was heavily pregnant when she started working with us in 2013,” Hammouqah reveals. “Public healthcare didn’t cover antenatal care for Syrian refugees. The project helped her to save enough money to have her baby in a hospital, and to continue to start a new life afterwards.” For Liza, employment with Gudrun & Gudrun was the lifeline she needed to give her family a degree of stability during a turbulent time.

The UN announced recently that at 65 million worldwide, the number of people displaced by conflict is at the highest level ever recorded. Considering the success of Gudrun & Gudrun’s empowering business model, could larger textile producers follow suit?

“For big clothes companies it is very difficult to start working sustainably – they really have to change direction,” acknowledges Rógvadóttir. “So they focus on a small contribution, for example making 1% of their production a ‘conscious collection’. But we believe that sustainability should not be the icing on the cake, but the cake itself.”

At least for now, the army of knitters on Gudrun & Gudrun’s books demonstrate how a traditionally feminine pastime can be transformed into a socially powerful project, allowing a handful of female Syrian refugees a level of stability and freedom that’s denied to so many.

“The most important thing is to be able to live a normal, dignified life,” says Rógvadóttir. “Refugees, like everybody else, want to support themselves. And if you can help them to do that, it’s the best form of development aid.”